When I first began nosing the impressively stout (98.6 proof!) cask strength expression of Dalmore Select Edition 2005, it actually seemed curiously indistinct or shy to me. More time began to reveal that this is an expression that really benefits greatly from some time in the glass, being almost mandatory to wake up this spirit. The nose starts with toasted malt and shortbread, citrus zest and leather, with cinnamon and maybe the tiniest whiff of smoke. More time exposed to the air wakes up more of the sherry cask influence, with rum raisin, roasted nuts and vinous fruit joining an increasingly complex medley.

On the palate, this is nutty, earthy and sweet up front–it’s actually a little bit funky and almost meaty, though that impression is quickly overtaken by waves of stewed dark fruit, dried fruit, vanilla cake, citrus and finally mocha. Over time, the trademark Dalmore orange is really coming to the fore, putting up big Creamsicle notes alongside the vanilla. At the same time, this also possesses a complex leathery and earthy backbone, making for a soulful malt to dissect. The whole time this was in the glass, it seemed to be getting better–and I must say, the 98.6 proof is extremely well integrated. Tasting this whisky blind, I never would have expected it to be that high, though it helps to account for the complexity of its flavors.

All in all, this 2005 Select Edition expression delivers the kind of unique character and complexity you’d be hoping to find in a whisky sporting this kind of sky-high MSRP. Most definitely a dram for special occasions.